In this structure, I will install an ESC ( Electronic speed controller Enter the electric wheel of our 24 volt grave digging machine. If you don\'t keep an eye on it all the time, I \'ve made a bunch of other necessary changes to this horrible BPRO. This should be our last upgrade before I go, just convert it completely into electric-kart. Why do I need ESC? When you run a 24 v dc power supply to your child\'s BPRO, this is the best way to prevent mechanical failures of gears, motors and lines ( Battery power). ESC offers soft start, variable throttle and soft brake. These are the main functions that allow you to reach more than 24v without crushing the gearbox and melting wires. The stock accelerator pedal is just an on/off switch. A motor with a large voltage will produce a lot of torque. Applying all the torque in an instant is the secret to breaking things. ESC allows you to gently increase the throttle, which not only prevents breakage, but also has a better acceleration than the inventory ( Because you\'re not just burning out before the wheels catch, they start to soften, grab and leave). In addition, you can get cool features such as remote parent kill switch, backup pager and simple 12v accessory wiring. I got my ESC from www. East Coast powercom . The 1000w DIY kit is a very interesting wiring project ( For those who like that kind of thing) The person hosting the show is very helpful and willing to answer any questions you may have. The best customer service I have ever experienced. Not enough recommendation. ( No, I said it was not paid. . . Yes, I am happy to pay the full price for this kit. This is a good value. ) 24vGD does not have the hood and trunk that is as accessible as the old GD model. To get into the area where we need to run the wires, we have to remove some screws. On the underside of the vehicle, there are about a dozen screws fixing the Hood to the main tub. They are mostly on the edge, but there is a couple near the headlights and a couple where the dashboard and hood meet. The easiest way to find them is to start with a corner and work around as you gently pry up the hood. If stuck, find a hidden screw. Once you find everything, it will pop up easily. The trunk is a little easier. After closing the seat, there are three screws to attach the back cover to the bathtub. Then, four screws are hidden under the back window sticker. If you look closely, you can see the outline of the hole where they sit. This will require damage to the sticker behind to enter. For this step, we just follow the instructions on the wiring diagram that came with the East Coast ESC kit. I started installing ESC and relay groups on my motherboard. I am trying to install them in the position of the simplest possible terminal and other accessories. After installing the large part, I tested the circuit board on the truck to make sure it was installed. Then I connect through the wire and make each connection as shown in the picture. Before cutting the wire, I make sure to double check each connection. I fixed the terminals on each wire with my curlers. When I finished rewiring, I connected the bench side of the light gauge wiring diagram. There are a lot of wires to be connected, but don\'t be intimidated. You can do it one by one. It took me a few hours to finish this step, but I double checked each connection before cutting/curling. I really like this part of this project and it makes me happy to do so many wiring connections. After I connected everything, I screwed it off the board so I could paint the board. I suggest painting the boards first if conditions permit. . . But it was cold here when I started, so I had to wait for a sunny day to paint my board. The board I used was just a 5mm pad/Lulu plywood. You can also use plexiglass or any other non- Conductive material. Some people install their ESCs directly on the vehicle. Because the compartments in the 24vGD are vertical, I think it is the easiest way to install onto the board. Once I\'m sure everything can be put in the back compartment, I\'ll reconnect all the parts to the paint board and put it aside. Almost all inventory lines need to be removed for this installation. After all, a big benefit of using the ESC kit is that for the number of amps that a 24v system like this can draw, there is an appropriate size wiring. I first removed my battery and my previous connection to them. I unscrewed the line slot on the lower side of the vehicle, walked along the line to each end and disconnected all the connections. I pulled the plug off the pad and foot pedal. I also disconnected the quick connection to the motor and temporarily left the lead on the motor. The only complete stock line I left is related to the sound card and LED light. It\'s all rat\'s nest in the factory, but I\'ll clean it up soon. The wiring confusion of the inventory lights and sounds is shocking. Really just throw it there and everything is knotted/tangled. They were apparently anxious to get this out of the factory. Either way, each light has its own leads tied to the circuit board. There is a circuit board inside the front hood compartment and a smaller circuit board inside the rear trunk compartment. The speakers, headlights and sound switches are attached to the front. Side Lights and rear lights are attached to the rear. Each lead has a quick connection plug to the circuit board, so I just disconnected each wire, undid it, pulled it through a heat shrink tube and heated it to shrink the pipe, then put them in a neat package. Throughout the project, I tried to run everything in the heat pipe to keep the wiring as neat and tidy as possible. I left the front board installed in the inventory location and relocated the rear board to the board I created in step 1. Using my multimeter, I can see the front panel take out 24v from the battery and take out 1. 8 ~ per LED ~ V. Typically, when installing the ESC kit, you need to apply the appropriate voltage to the inventory board using a step-down converter. This model is 24v stock of the factory so no downtime is required. If your model is 12v in stock, you need to use a step-down converter to keep the magic smoke inside the board. The 12v circuit board does not like to run under 24 v. Next I need to install the new foot pedal. The kit uses a separate brake and accelerator pedal. Stock BPROs automatically brake when the driver releases the throttle. This Instant On/off action puts a lot of pressure on the gearbox. The kit features variable throttle with soft start and stop functions, greatly reducing wear and tear on the transmission system. We also note that the soft start acceleration is accelerated because the wheel rotation is much less at the start. I installed the new oil door in the same position as the stock throttle. The physical motion range of the new pedal is much larger than the stock, so I installed it in the corner where I used to store the stock wires. I adjust the height of the pedal with screws/spacers. I want it to be on the floor right under the full throttle, and the floor does not suppress the pedal to press completely. The screw separated my gasket ( I found this when I sneaked the camera in to take a picture and I can\'t actually see it). So I pulled the gasket out and left the screw as a raised stop. The brake pedal was very easy to install, just marked its position and put a few screws on it. I put the wires of the two pedals into the rear compartment through the track on the lower side of the vehicle. When I run each set of wires, I make sure to place the length of the heat shrink tube on each set of wires. This will be helpful for future wire management. I need to use more of mine Tool/vibrating saw for removing some materials for proper installation. I have a few of these. Tools of various brands, they are used very widely. So far, my favorite power tool for repair and repair projects! I have used the Traxxas 5675 Motors in this building and they have performed very well so far. Stock leads on the motor are only a few inches long with bullet connectors. Both positive and negative have two 14gw leads. I remove the bullet connector and connect the two 14gw leads into a 10gw wire to extend the lead to the rear compartment. I make sure to use heat shrink tubes on my connections to prevent them from short-circuiting each other. This step is optional but I really recommend it. I went to add an instrument to monitor different aspects of the electrical system. I used one of the on-board multimeters to monitor voltage, current, power, and energy. What I\'m most interested in is watching the voltage to know exactly what the remaining battery life is during the game time and Watt Time measurement and use it as an odometer to track total power consumption. It\'s also good to be able to monitor amp spikes. Also, there is a cool little LED screen on the dashboard and kids like something like that. It\'s also very simple to install for this. I just follow the attached wiring diagram and connect with the 18 GW wire. It basically involves wiring the 100A splitter on the negative pole between the battery and the load. Then, 4 light measuring wires measure the difference on both sides of the splitter and give you a reading. I connect the light regulation line to the new on/off switch so that the light gauge will only power up when the whole device is powered on. If you connect it directly to the battery, it stays at 24/7 and runs out of your battery. I cut a hole in the dashboard with my multi-tool and inserted the measuring unit. It is stuck in the right position and protects itself by the button on the back. This is definitely a good addition to the setup as it allows me to monitor everything with an electrical system during the game. The stock on/off switch only controls the light/sound. If the pedal is stepped on, flipping it to the off position will not prevent the vehicle from moving. I fix this by removing the leads of the stock switch and connecting them together. I then power the inventory circuit from the terminal/accessory block of the new ESC kit. The switch that comes with the ESC kit is perfectly suited to replace the stock switch. I connected it as per the details in the ESC wiring diagram and pressed it to the dashboard. Now when you flip the switch, the whole device turns on/off the power supply. The ESC kit comes with the color selection of the switch, we chose the bright green switch, and the Green gravedigger color scheme looks cool. Whew! We finally got results! Now, I\'m going to install everything in the last place in the car. The ESC board is firmly installed in the trunk. The vehicle side wiring is all connected to the appropriate location shown in the wiring diagram of step 1. The batteries are put back in their position and connected to the diverter on the negative side and the ESC on the positive side. I used a push. Button reset 40A circuit breaker with two batteries in series. The circuit breaker is located under the driver\'s seat, so the driver can reset the circuit breaker during the session without any disassembly. I also chose not to use the charging port of the ESC kit but to use the lead for my Noco G4 charger. I attached a set of leads to each battery. This will allow me to balance charging to the 24v Bank by charging each 12v battery separately. I also like the cold weather maintenance mode of Noco, which is important in my climate. I also connected my motor lead to the relay group and checked it three times against the wiring diagram I actually installed. Everything looks good so I put it on Jack stand to test. Turn on the switch and the ESC/Relay group makes a sound indicating that it is powered on without a fault. When you step on the pedal, the wheel moves. . . . . The opposite direction! Whoops! I need a motor with a reverse connection ( Can even use reverse Timing motor but hard to find one). So I opened some connections and it was working fine. After I was convinced that everything was routed correctly and was running properly, I started to summarize my wire management. As I move on, I run my wires with a heat shrink tube to keep everything clean and separate. Here I just tie it to the zipper and roll up the excess as neatly as possible. This step really depends on how detailed you want. I think I did a pretty good job, but I hope the cubicle under the seat looks a little cleaner. I don\'t know why, because there are so many wires, but overall I\'m happy with the look of the installation. The ESC kit installation was very successful! We have been running for more than a month without any problems. In the past, we used to fuse the fuse and even fuse the switch in the stock converter. Before it can\'t handle two children with the upgraded motor, now it can handle two children. My son likes that it has two pedals and his driving ability has improved rapidly. The inventory gearbox maintains a speed of 9 mph and hilly terrain. This kit is good! Overall, the ESC suite solved all the problems we had and added more features. Www cannot be recommended. East Coast powercom enough! ( Wes, if you see thissend me a T- Stuff junk shirts or stickers or something from your website! . . . Or no, I will still keep buying your stuff because now kiddo wants other rides to be as fast as the gravediggers)
