Electric cars are the future, starting today.
However, they are still expensive.
3-phase AC motor is the absolute standard for automobile companies to manufacture electric vehicles.
Tesla sports car, Nissan Leaf and so on. . .
All the big boys use air conditioning.
It has many advantages over DC.
AC motors can be used almost forever.
You can get the regenerative brake for free so that the energy you use to get the car going can be captured and put back into the battery pack.
This also makes the brakes last almost forever!
In addition to the ball bearings that are usually very durable, there are very few parts in the AC motor that will wear out.
The market is flooded with three-phase industrial AC motors, so you can buy them cheaply if you use them.
However, almost all DIY electric vehicle conversions are done using a DC motor. Why is that?
A big reason is that the motor controller is usually very expensive.
For example, the 211 KW Brusa AC motor controller for electric vehicles will run $21,000 for you: I will guide you through building your own 200 KW (268 HP! ! )
AC motor controller of about $1000.
If you get some good deals on Ebay or are content with less power, it may be less than that.
I wrote the field-oriented control software on the DSP ic30f4011 micro controller, which is free to use as long as you don\'t make money from it.
MPLab is free if you want to modify it: I made the PCB for the control and drive parts and I let you modify the schematic and pcb artwork based on your inner content.
They are made in design spark and are also completely free to download: So, if you want to modify the motherboard, you can, and then you can make your own board from the PCB manufacturer of your choice.
Alternatively, you can buy the soldering and testing PCB from my website here :! /P&S-Circuit-
Board/c/16287307/offset = 0 & sort = normal soldering skills are helpful for PCB.
Some aluminum drilling is needed, but can be done with hand drill if we are creative.
Let\'s start!
Here is the list of parts you need: 1.
12 \"x 15\" x 3/8 \"aluminum plate: you can use this radiator instead of the aluminum plate.
You need 15 \"long.
But you have to drill and knock holes: 20. 5\" x 15\" x 0.
063 \"aluminum panel for housing: 5 feet, 1/4\" or 5/16 \"eye holes of 2 specifications welded cables.
12 \"x 24\" x 16 mil copper sheet: 12 \"x 20 mil Nomex copper sheet for insulating 2 sheets of copper.
The link below is enough for 6 controllers, but this is the smallest one I can find.
It is the part number of Kapton tape nmxym2001. : 5 feet x 1 \"x 1mil (
Ebay has a lot of things like this.
It\'s not necessarily 1 \"wide).
Even the tape may be fine.
Screws and mounting hardware.
Note: The following links are for reference only.
They usually have 100 packs, but you only need a few of them.
So it may be cheaper to go to the local hardware store.
In addition, you can use 8x12mm \"nylon, 8x20mm\" zinc instead of 30mm x M4 nylon, 1/2 x M4 zinc and 3/4 nylon stand, and an 8x1.
25 \"threaded nylon bracket.
It\'s just that ebay has a cheaper metric version: 1/4 \"x 3/4\" flat head x24 8x1/2 \"nylon disc head x4 8x3/4\" zinc flat head x8 12mm x M4 disc head nylon machine screw x4 20mm x M4 flat head zinc machine screw x4 30mm x M4 nylon threaded bracket x4 3/16 \"flat head washer x24 M5 x 8mm screws x16 M3 x 6mm disc head machine screws x28.
Control/drive board: Bill of Materials for control/drive board: email me at PandSPowerElectronics @ gmail.
Get com of BOM. 10.
Power capacitors (
There are many good options in this regard.
The link below is the one I use: three IGBT half bridges.
There\'s a bunch of types that work fine.
I just listed two options below.
You can often find very good deals on Ebay :(
This will allow 100 KW)(
This will allow 200 KW)12.
Three current sensors (
You really only need 2 but 3rd for extra safety if you want)
: 20 specifications 5 feet red, black, white and yellow lines.
Make sure it has a rated voltage of at least 300 v. (
It\'s not necessarily those colors)8054T2414.
Thermal paste (
There are millions of choices.
Almost anything can be done): 0.
11 \"the mother quickly disconnects the non-insulated x12.
This is done on a PCB, but not a standard PCB part, so I\'m not going to list it in the material list.
It also works if you get the insulation, just unplug the insulation: 69525K1116.
600 sandpaper: 15 \"x 12\" x 3/8 \"aluminum plates are ready.
The position of the IGBT hole is based on the following assumption: you are using one of these types of IGBT: Or you are using a smaller 400amp (or less)
IGBTs, need to adjust the IGBT mounting holes: All hole positions on the picture are given relative to the upper left corner of the substrate.
You need a 3/16 bit, a 1/8 bit, a 1/4 bit and a 1/2 bit.
If you have a way to drill precisely, go to the drill and proceed to the next step!
Don\'t lose heart if you don\'t have a super luxurious Mill.
Can still do.
The next steps are for those who only have hand drills. . .
Formal drilling of the bottom plate!
Now flip it back with 600 or 800 very fine sandpaper and polish the area where IGBTs are installed.
Note that in the bottom plate picture above, where is it polished well and smooth?
Now, make sure there are no raised pieces of aluminum around the holes at the top and bottom.
If so, drill gently with a countersunk bit and knock off the raised aluminum.
For those who have a precise drilling base (x,y)
Coordinates, notes on all the coordinates and diameters of the holes, see the picture and drill all the holes!
For the rest of us, there is only one inconspicuous hand drill: for those who have the ability to base on (x,y)
Coordinates, these two steps are for you!
: The hole is very close to B, so it\'s a bit awkward to add a note to the picture to indicate the coordinates.
I will list them here: for those who only have hand drills: first, let\'s talk about what the control/drive board is.
It has all the safety circuits and the brain that controls the motor.
There is a DSP ic30f4011 micro controller that samples 2 of 3 phase current, throttle position and substrate temperature at the same time, then sets 6 pulse width modulation tasks based on this information to control 6 IGBTs
These 6 IGBTs power the 3 phases of the motor.
The board also has several comparators, as well as some NAND and gate.
Therefore, if any current measured from the current sensor is out of range, or if the supply voltage of 24 v or 5 v is out of range, the controller turns off IGBTs in about 2 millionths of a second.
Each IGBT has its own dedicated 24 v power supply and also has its own drive to turn it on and off quickly.
This helps to keep IGBTs cool.
Start welding!
First weld the surface to install capacitors and resistors.
The easiest way is to get solder paste: Put some solder paste on each capacitor and resistor surface mounting pad.
Surface Mount pads are pads that do not have holes through the circuit board.
They are marked as Cxxx and Rxxx, where xxx is a number.
For example, C21 or r15.
Once there is a little bit of solder paste on the pad, place the assembly on the pad.
Paste should hold them in place.
If you have a hot air welding rework station, just hit it with hot air and they will Weld in place very well.
Otherwise, press and hold each part with a toothpick and touch each pad with a soldering iron until the effect is good.
In terms of surface mounting parts, these surface mounting parts are very large (
Bags 1206 and 1210)
So it shouldn\'t be too bad.
Next, weld all the passes.
Hole resistance and capacitor.
If YouTube is new to you, it has a lot of welding tutorials.
There is no polarity in the resistance.
Only 2 capacitors with polarity on the board are electrolytic \"can\" types.
Next, add all the diodes.
These sections on the board start with D.
D5, for example.
Pay attention to the band on the diode!
Make sure it has the same direction as the picture on the board (
Called \"screen printing \").
Now, continue to do the SOIC part (
Part number fod83 16).
There are good videos on Youtube to explain how to weld SOIC parts.
Not too bad.
Now weld all the other parts.
Make sure you\'re grounded before touching everything in the electrostatic shield bag.
Basically, don\'t drag your feet around on the carpet before touching these parts.
There is a sheet metal next to my pad.
The metal sheet is connected to the ground outside by wire.
I touched the sheet metal before touching the static sensitive element.
In this way, any potential zapping I want to do will be exhausted to Earth.
Be sure to program ATTiny25 before welding!
Here you can find: The hex file is called DC-DC-Converter.
Hexadecimal and attached to this step.
You need an AVRISP MK2 to program it, or some form of programmer.
In addition, you will need some free Studio.
Debug the control board before continuing! !
Try 23 times if you have a bench supply. 5v-24.
0 v under 24 v power supply (
See above).
Use this debug code to program the MCU to measure the voltage between each pair of 0.
11 \"women disconnect quickly.
For notes on this, see the picture above: 3 pieces of semi-drilling along the edge (
Remember when you cut the sheets off, did you keep half of the surrounding holes drilled? ! ).
You can fold copper and nomex in a piece of wood.
When you\'re done, it should look like the picture above.
Also, for the B piece, as you can see in the picture, you need to weld 3 wires on it.
A heavy solder gun is needed.
Welding on B only if nomex is not next to B.
The PCB needs B voltage and that\'s what I do.
If you can\'t weld the wire to the B piece like this, you can connect the wire where the IGBTs Bolt is located to the B piece.
Like in the picture, put all 3 sheets of paper together with nomex in the middle.
In the figure, it shows the holes that have been drilled on 3 sheets of paper. (
Note that the nomex in the picture has rectangular holes.
It\'s annoying to do so. Don\'t bother!
The round holes work very well. )
If you have drilled the hole, proceed to the next step.
You\'re done here!
But for those poor people who only have hand drills, hold on.
The next part is for you: if you use a hand drill, flip the sandwich once you make a nomex sandwich and leave the B-piece up.
Cover its lips under a piece of plywood so that the sandwich can be laid flat without squeezing the two right angles to bend.
Place the lexan sheet with a capacitor hole on the top of the sandwich.
A bit like the holes in the picture above try to place, but it doesn\'t matter to be very close.
Now use the lexan hole as the guide and use the 7/32 bit to drill all 16 holes on all 3 sheets of paper at the same time.
Now, separate the 3 sheets and go back to the \"drill copper and Nomex sheets\" step.
Pay attention to the correct size of each capacitor hole, depending on which one you are using.
Using a 7/32 hole as a pilot hole, the correct size of the capacitor hole needs to be drilled in each of the 3 pieces.
Put some kapton tape on B-
As shown above, the label of the capacitor.
Make sure you cut a 5/8 circle from each tape so you can still do it on the label and B-sheet.
You need to add the tape to prevent short circuit to B-in Table B-tabs.
Connect the \"sandwich\" to the capacitor.
Add 3 pieces of kapton tape as shown in the fourth picture above.
This prevents the igbt B bolt from being too close to the B. sheet.
Connect the thermal resistor first (
Temperature probe).
Then, add a very thin layer of hot paste on the substrate and 3 IGBTs.
Credit cards are effective in this regard.
Then, fix them down using 1 \"x 0.
25 \"flat head machine screw with a lock washer and a nut for each hole.
Torque at diagonal.
For example, if the corners are marked 1, 2, 3, 4 clockwise, they are torque down to 1, 3, 2, 4.
Make sure that the 4 quick disconnect tabs on each IGBTs are down like in the picture.
For those of you who have drilled the IGBT mounting holes because they can get into the rolling mill or elsewhere, you have completed this step! Move on!
For those of you who use a flashlight, I just want to say, I\'m sorry for what you\'re going to do: now IGBTs are locked forever, you can use the unused part of this lexan paper to mark the hole position of 3 B and 3 B-tabs. Drill some 0.
Where you Mark B and B, lexan has 25 inch diameter holesholes.
Now, transfer these 6 holes to 3 pieces that are still bolted to the capacitor.
Drill 6 holes carefully and the capacitor is still connected. Then, (
You will hate me)
Disconnect the capacitor, release B-sheet (sorry)
And expand 3 B holes to diameter 1. 25 inches.
If you are confused about which 3 holes to zoom in on B-see the \"drill copper and Nomex plate\" stepssheet.
Now, put B-
Put the sandwich back together as before and reconnect the capacitor and we are ready!
Don\'t you want you to have a CNC factory now? haha.
You have to put your cable first.
This will require a way to curl the lugs onto the cable.
We are using 2 meter cables and if you squish it first it can barely go through the current sensor window.
Note that the picture of it is slightly flattened.
You can level it a bit with two pieces of wood and a little thing (
Or two pieces of wood and a hammer? )
Some bending is required to install the lugs on the IGBT tab.
Use the lugs with 0.
Eyes 5/16 or 25.
After flattening the cable, add a heat shrink tube.
Otherwise, you will break the fever and it will be damaged.
Well, it may take a little bit of coaxing this step, but it should go on.
Don\'t try to force it all the way.
If the label is pressed well so you know there is a good connection then that\'s OK!
As my mother always said, enough is like a feast.
Feel free to bend the labels if you need them so they all have access to the female connector.
Once the PCB is connected to IGBTs, for each of the 4 PCB mounting holes, add M4 x 12mm metal screws through the bottom, and then add 8 washers or 2 washers to the metal screws, then there is the M4 x 30mm threaded nylon gasket and then the nylon M4 x 12mm screw that clips the PCB onto the gasket.
Continue to plug the temperature sensor and 3 current sensors into the control panel.
For pin output of the current sensor, see page 3 of the current sensor data sheet attached.
Of the 4 pins of each current sensor, you only need 3 (Vref is unused)
, Which means you need to build the cable using 3 wires.
I usually use shielded 3-wire cables, but you can also screw the 3-wire together.
Make sure the cable is shielded or twisted!
This is a noisy environment.
To connect the capacitor/nomex sandwich to the IGBTs, you have to bend the sheets a little bit.
Once you have the screws installed in the IGBT hole, things will go very smoothly.
If things are not aligned for some reason, just zoom in a little bit to the problem with the IGBT mounting holes.
On the copper sheet
After installing the capacitor, insert the 3 wires welded on the B board into the 3 orange wires on the control board.
Stick the wires down so they don\'t flip around and make them smell like I do. haha.
A way to connect B and B
See above for cables.
Please note that B-
The cable is connected in one corner and B is connected in the other.
I bend the aluminum with a sheet metal brake, but you can be a little cheaper if you don\'t!
Just search for cheap sheet metal bends on youtube and you will get a lot of ideas. Okay, take your 20.
5 inch x 15 inch x 0.
063 inch pieces of aluminum ready to go.
Please see the attached picture for the direction of the curve.
Now, install the chassis on the controller.
The capacitor base will be mounted upside down onto the housing.
If you have drilled, simply screw the capacitor base onto the housing.
DC is also connected-
DC up and connect it to the shell, but read DC-first-
DC picture above
All of you professionals are done!
Take the next step!
Hand drill: Bolt the edge of the shell on the bottom plate.
Then lift the capacitor until it touches the housing.
Now mark the 4 capacitor mounting holes on the housing with some paint, marking or pencil.
Remove the shell and drill 4 holes.
In addition, the laying of DC-
A dc converter opposite the inside of the housing and Mark 2 mounting holes.
View notes on DC-
DC converter above
Before connecting DC
Fix the DC permanently on the housing, make sure the capacitor is connected and make sure the DC-DC is wired.
We can\'t open it like this on both ends!
I don\'t have any pictures of it because I \'ve never added a endboard (
I\'m always in the testing phase and have my beta testers seal it up)
But what they told me was to cut off the ABS at both ends of the controller, use ABS cement and a hot gun and form a lip around the ABS end plate.
Then, of course, after cutting the wire through the hole, just glue the two ends to the shell.
Something like this works fine: The 5-pin encoder cable also needs to be plugged into the encoder, which will be connected to the motor.
In the field-oriented control code, it is critical to access the RPM of the motor.
The micro-controller counts the pulses from the encoder and can infer the motor speed from them.
Here is an example of the encoder I am using: this is a specific part number I have selected: E6-512-1000-NE-S-D-T-
At 3512 scales per turn, the diameter of the motor column is 1 inch, and there is no exponential pulse (
This is only useful for permanent magnet AC Motors)
, And single ended, which means that the encoder of the motor column can stick through without holes.
It\'s good when you have a short post almost protruding behind the motor.
This is a good way to prevent dust.
If you have to get a place where the motor column goes all the way through the encoder housing, that\'s no big deal.
The adhesive back option is also selected so that the encoder can be glued to the back of the motor.
Also, I chose to include a centering tool, a spacing tool and a hex wrench.
They also sell shielded 5-wire cables that have been manufactured for encoder connectors.
You can use the hall throttle or potentiometer throttle.
The controller is programmed through a serial port.
Here is an example of the Hall effect throttle I am using: serial communication will most likely require a USB to serial adapter (
Unless your computer nickname is Methusela)
The motor is the simplest part.
You simply connect the 3-phase cable through 3 current sensors to the 3 leads of the motor.
If the motor rotates incorrectly, simply replace any 2 of the 3 motor leads.
Here are the rest of the connections: the battery pack is positive------
Pre-charge resistance-------
Pre-charge relay---------
B on the controller.
Battery pack positive-------------FUSE --------------CONTACTOR 1 ------------
B on the controller.
Battery pack negative------------CONTACTOR 2 ----------------B-
Paper on the controller.
This is a good choice for cheap contactor.
You don\'t have to use 2.
Just safer (I never did! haha)
: Is a good pre-charge resistor: the pre-charge relay must be able to handle several DC amps at hundreds of DC voltages!
Do not use car relays! !
I used this in the past and it worked very well.
It says it\'s a 6 v coil, but there are two, so you just need to make 12 v coils in series: Let\'s say you \'ve debugged the control/drive board.
OK, let\'s use the 48 v bus voltage in the process.
Program the micro-controller using pickit3 or similar software: after the AC controller software is programmed, type the following in Realterm: run-pi-test\"run-pi-
Test \"will find the best scale and integral constant and save it to the EEProm automatically.
If you are using an AC induction motor, perform the following additional procedures: having the three-phase motor run with the field orientation control requires you to know some vague facts about the motor, these facts are not available on the nameplate.
For example, you need the time constant of the rotor, which requires the resistance of the rotor and the inductance of the rotor.
Of course, none of these things!
So instead, we will do a trick to find it.
Type the following command in Realterm to make sure the motor post can rotate freely: run-rotor-
TestIt will look for the ideal rotor time constant.
It will run for a few minutes.
What it does during this time is to see which rotor time constant candidate rotating motor is the fastest.
I tested the controller and software on AC induction motor and permanent magnet AC motor.
Here is a video of rapid testing with a permanent magnet AC motor.
This test was conducted with a 48 v DC bus: Here is a video of the test with an AC induction motor.
This is a 6.
The rated current of the 6 KW motor is 480VAC.
The test was done with a 72 v DC bus that works to about 51VAC: Here is an example of using serial communication: I have two beta testers.
The first controller will be tested in Canada.
He will really wear it.
Both Regen and non-regen will be tested for high voltage and high currentregen.
2nd the controller is going to a friend in Australia.
This is what I put together for this structure.
