use a treadmill dc drive motor and pwm speed controller for powering tools
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use a treadmill dc drive motor and pwm speed controller for powering tools

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Electric tools such as metal cutting machine and lathe, drilling machine, band saw, Sanders may need.
The 5HP to 2HP motor is capable of fine-tuning the speed while maintaining the torque.
Coincidentally, most treadmills use 80.
260 VDC motor, with suitable HP ratings and PWM motor speed controller, allows the user to change the belt speed and maintain a good constant speed and torque while running.
There are commercial DC motor/PWM controllers available, or you can build the PWM circuit from scratch and buy all the components separately, but you will spend a lot of time and money anyway.
All the parts you need are on the treadmill.
Take your own apart or buy one on Ebay. (shameless self-Promotion below)
Motor/controller combination on EbaySafety and disclaimer-
You should know something about the dangers of electricity and home current and know your abilities/incompetence.
The use/misuse of these motor sets can cause serious harm to you or others-up.
Don\'t try if you have questions.
It will kill you.
Any crazy ideas found here need your test.
The application and use of any of your ideas here is up to you and you agree that I cannot take responsibility.
Your device should have an on/off safety switch, fuse protection, ground wire on the machine as needed, and the power supply should have a ground fault breaker, circuit breaker, properly grounded socket and wire, always unplug the device before patching and any other safety practices I forgot to mention.
Complex description of treadmill PWM (Pulse-Width-Modulation)
The controllers you can access Wikipedia to better define PWM. basically (
Understand as much as I can)
It is an efficient speed control circuit that pulses voltage and signal width thousands of times per second.
This transmits more power to the load than the resistance type speed controller and wastes less heat.
PWM style controller
Near one of the edges of the plate.
Each group of specific cars (Minimum speed-
Touch if you dare)
Adjusting the minimum Trimpot may affect the maximum, and it may be necessary to adjust both before reaching the maximum (Maximum speed-
Touch if you dare)
Please note that the maximum adjustment may affect the minir comp (
Flood compensation-Don\'t touch)
Improve load regulation by providing minimum speed fluctuations due to load changes.
If there is no big change in the load presented to the motor, the IR adjustment is set at the minimum level.
Excessive IR comp can cause the control to become unstable, resulting in motor positioning. CL (
Current limit-Don\'t touch)
CL Trimpot sets the current that limits the maximum current of the motor.
During the start-up period, the current influx of AC lines is also limited to the safety level. ACCEL (
Acceleration time period, 0-
Full speed in seconds)
I have never seen it on a treadmill circuit card, only on a commercial PWM DC motor controller.
There must be something on the treadmill board that sets the time value. .
Maybe resistance?
Pot for PWM circuit (Potentiometer)
Adjust the speed from 0 RPM to the maximum RPM.
The potentiometer can be Rotary or linear sliding.
The rated voltage of the potentiometer is usually 5 or 10 k ohms.
Usually 0 Ohm does not move, 10 K Ohm is full speed (
Unless you change the high and low wires of the pot. . .
Then vice versa).
Keep in mind that the motor may not even start moving until 2 or 3 K ohms (
The actual values are different)
You also can\'t really start the pan in a 2 or 3 K Ohm position, as the treadmill motor controller needs 0 Ohm at startupup (
A little annoying).
The pot talks to the circuit board through 3 terminals usually marked as High, wiper and low (or H,W,L).
Some controllers use the digital console to change the motor speed.
You don\'t want to roll programmable selections, Motion programs, and heartbeat monitors just to change the motor speed on the lathe.
Solution: Throw it away and replace it with a suitable pot (
Pot of 5, 10 k Ohm in general).
The digital console interfaces with the PWM board in the same way as the speed Pot.
Through these three terminals (
On some labels marked g o h or l w h, black, white and red or S1, S2, S3, blue, gray, orange.
You should also use the switch to turn on and off.
The pot is used for speed control once the machine is running.
I have seen 3 types of motors.
DC permanent magnet with PWM Controller (
Great for torque at all speeds).
2 wires of the motor (Usually).
DC motor with Stator
DC motor control voltage. (
Great for torque at all speeds).
4 wires of the motor.
2 run to Splitter-
Magnetic field current, 2 run to winding.
Change the voltage applied to the stator and change the speed.
Not all 4-wire motors are controlled by voltage.
Some have 2 wires that are part of the thermal protection circuit.
What I have seen is usually blue. AC motors. (
Probably no better than the AC motor you want to replace).
The car runs at a constant rate.
Special sliding pulleys are used.
Change belt speed manually-
Controlled with a cable that changes the diameter of the pulley.
The larger the diameter of the motor pulley, the faster the belt speed, the slower the belt speed (I think).
The size of the DC motor varies, but most of them are permanent magnet motors with brushes, freewheels, and there are threaded holes or brackets or flanges welded on the housing for installation.
They can usually go from 80-
120VDC but up to 260VDC.
HP\'s 1/2-3. 5HP (
Treadmill working Grade)
, High-end RPM 2500-6000, 5-20 Amps.
When you can adjust to any RPM in the range and keep the torque close to constant, the maximum RPM is not that important.
You can reverse the direction on the DC motor by reversing the polarity.
Just replace 2 motor wires (
Usually black and white or black and red)
At the terminals on the PWM circuit card.
Remember, if you reverse the direction of the motor, you can\'t use the flywheel as you do now.
It may fall off because of the left hand line.
Drill tap and set-
Screw the flywheel to the shaft most of the treadmill motor flywheel is also used as a pulley.
They love the flat Moon-10 \"v\" grooves.
The drive pulley matching this belt initially drives the large roller on the treadmill belt.
It is almost impossible to reuse the plastic roller pulley.
In fact, very few motors are equipped with ordinary car 4L pulley.
Solution: remove the flywheel with normal V-belt pulley.
* If the flywheel you remove has fins for cooling the motor, replacing it with a blade mounted on the shaft or an externally driven fan * removing the flywheel can be painful.
Left the flywheel.
The line of the hand 4 m can really be bent or corroded on the shaft.
Put the flywheel end into the vise and rotate the axis on the relative end clock-
Wise and The flywheel may fall off.
Some motors do not have two axes.
The shaft of the Brush edge is usually hidden under the bearing housing.
For stubborn or single axis Motors, I use a hacksaw, run the motor at low speed, and use it like a metal lathe, passing the pulley through once or twice.
It is always easy to fall off when you turn the nut into 3 thinner nuts instead of a wide one.
Just make sure you don\'t cut into the motor shaft.
The eyeball approaches it and then tests it with a pair of Vise Grip turns until you go through the threaded part. Or. . . .
If you don\'t mind. . .
Motor can be used (
At a very low speed)
As a metal lathe, carve the right groove for the belt of your choice.
This can be a bit tricky (dangerous)
Because your tool is not fixed.
* Use eye protection, gloves, masks, etc.
* A mouse tail file will work with a circular belt, or a small jerk file can carve a V-groove for a belt in the style of a regular car. Remember again-
If you reverse the direction of the motor, you can\'t use the flywheel as you do now.
It may fall off because of the left hand line.
Drill tap and set-screw it.
There are some small but solvable issues using these settings-ups.
I think a lot of these issues can be solved by trimming the pot settings, but the exact number of adjustments and the value of each issue changes too much, vague, unpublished or unknown to the average person.
Let me know if you come up with a better solution so I can update them. problem 1)
Treadmill motor has 3-Fywheel pound.
Engineers calculate the stored energy by rotating this heavy-duty flywheel to obtain a horsepower rating called \"treadmill work Horsepower.
Due to the kinetic energy still stored in the flywheel, any rapid change in speed has not been noticed.
Sometimes you can hear that the motor is completely off until the flywheel spool is off and balance the motor speed with the corresponding settings on the rheostat.
If the load recovery or speed setting is higher than the current speed of the motor, the motor will be turned back on.
Solution: remove the flywheel.
Some kinetic energy will be stored in the device you are powering, but some horsepower may be lost if not. problem 2)
When you start the treadmill, you don\'t want it to start at full speed at your time.
If the rheostat is not set to the low end of the resistance value, the circuit will not start.
Now you have a motor/controller combination on your drill or mill, and since the rheostat is not set at the start position, it will not start.
Workaround: before opening, turn the rheostat to the start position.
This is the drill bit I converted into a mill.
I bought it at the dump for $10.
The AC motor is broken.
The cross feed station comes from Enco, and the new motor also comes from the treadmill at the dump.
The motor and belt drive it like the original motor.
Both drill and mill are good.
The treadmill motor bracket is the same as the original AC motor bracket.
I tried the original 2 belts but soon got rid of the extra belt and ladder pulley with only one belt.
No longer need to move the belt up and down the step pulley.
The motor maintains good torque at all speeds. [
My treadmill power Mill/drill](
The future picture of sewing machine mod is here)
This machine is a 1940 style heavy duty leather machine with its own 4-foot-long work table and a 50-pound friction clutch motor attached to the pedal.
I can\'t fit machines and benches in my garage.
I installed it with one of these suits
Ups and tested it enough to know that it will work.
Foot control is switched off from a newer sewing machine using an AC motor speed control circuit that also uses a pot.
I removed the rest of the circuit and replaced the pot with the 10 k Ohm pot needed for my treadmill motor speed control.
Now, I can operate the sewing machine in the living room like a normal portable machine.
Its torque is as large as the original clutch motor and will sew your arm up.
This is the 4 styles I found.
The picture shows the DC motor.
Except for the last one, all of them are permanent magnet.
The image of the motor at the bottom left has a bracket that is almost the same as the holder on the AC motor on the drill press etc.
This is the sewing machine foot control I modified to run the motor group-
I plan to supply electricity with an old industrial sewing machine.
The circuit inside was originally used to control the AC motor, so it is only suitable for the installation of the potentiometer.
Remove all circuits of the original controller (i. e.
Resistance, pot type SCR, etc)
Install your speed pan.
This requires some adjustments to the location, but this can be done.
I can now control the treadmill motor with my feet and go from a few to 4000.
Here are some of the schematics and pictures I have collected.
Most treadmills have one attached to the plastic belly panel.
If you have a schematic you would like to email me.
The PDF is slow to download, but the details are worth waiting for, so be patient.
Just right click on it, open it in another window, and view the rest of the structure when downloading.

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